TREND I-SPY

A Decade of Yves Saint Laurent Like everybody else I have been looking back this week and reviewing the major fashion trends of the Millennium. In doing so it occurred to me that you really only need to look at one major label and that is Yves Saint Laurent. the whole history of fashion in this decade can be found there! So see for yourself, the major items and themes of the decade as brought to us by the following designers: S2000-F2000 Alber Elbaz S2001-F2004 Tom Ford S2005-Present Stefano Pilati While all three relied heavily for inspiration on the original designs of the master himself, their modern versions of Peasant looks, Pinstripes, Leather and Snakeskin, The Trench and of course the wonderful Le Smoking were brilliant enough to bring these fashion classics into the new century and look thoroughly up-to-date while doing so. Alber Elbaz has since gone on to prove his worth as one of the best designers of his generation at Lanvin, Tom Ford has evolved into a brand unto himself a

Phi, S10 Phi, F09 Sadly, Style.com is reporting the demise of New York brand, Phi. Designer Andreas Melbostad became a favorite in recent seasons due to his success at executing the sort of hard-edged body-con looks favored by it-girls, models and fashion editors. Interesting then that Style.com is proposing a possible end to this tough girl look, mainly because the New York Times is reporting on its popularity amongst that same demographic. Meow! Now now girls, don't forget it's Christmas. " The New York Times has wised up to the tough and sexy model-off-duty look everyone’s channeling these days (pictured) and has summoned psychologists and trend forecasters to break it down. “It’s not cool to be demure,” one stylist polled reported. We’re guessing this means the trend’s life span is just about up. Bring on the chintz!" As reported in Style.com on 12/24/09

Merry Christmas Everyone! Enjoy these gorgeous sketches from Grace Coddington's wonderful book, Catwalk Cats

American Vogue January 2010 Media darling Rodarte is actually Californian design duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy. The sisters are featured in the January 2010 issue of American Vogue along with other young designers currently making their mark on the international fashion scene. Of their design style they say, "Ruin and decay are recurring themes in all of our collections. We're most attracted to imperfection and beauty of chaos." Rodarte for Target December 2009 Yesterday saw the launch of their capsule collection for the Go International line for Target , the latest in a long line of collaborations between the most forward-thinking of the mass retailers and young design talent that includes Alexander McQueen, Luella Bartley, Paul & Joe, Libertine, Thakoon, Proenza Schouler, Alice Temperley, and Jovovich-Hawk amongst others. As ever, prices are a far cry from the usual $3,000 and up. Denim jacket, $39.99, navy tulle bow top, $24.99, navy lace and tulle skirt, $29.99, Blu

Madonna and Lourdes 2009 Lily and Serena Van der Woodsen from Gossip Girl As you know, when Don and Doris Fisher named their stores Gap in 1969, it was a reference to the generation gap, a cavernous divide between teenagers and their parents so wide that the Fishers made a fortune from outfitting the young in a uniform of jeans and t-shirts that were emblematic of rebellion. Fast foward to 2010 and it's a different world. Female celebrities on both sides of the pond are taking their daughters as their dates to Red Carpet events. They are also spotted shopping together. As a consequence their styles complement each other rather than match. I have never had any doubt that Joan Crawford's daughter was telling it like it was in Mommie Dearest. why am I so certain? Just take a look at these Mother/Daughter photos of them in identical Tyrolean outfits! Joan Crawford and daughter Christina in 1945 Yasmin and daughter Amber Le Bon, 2009 Lovely Yasmin Le Bon, wife of Duran Duran lead s

Royal Variety Performance December 09 The Queen meets Lady GaGa December 09 Glenda Jackson in Elizabeth R, 1971 Cate Blanchett plays Elizabeth 1, 2007 Elizabeth 1 1533–1603 In Blackpool last week Queen Elizabeth II met Lady GaGa dressed as Elizabeth I. No, it's not a bizarre dream, it actually happened at The Royal Variety Performance, and here are the photographs to prove it! GaGa's red latex dress had a gorgeous ruff which made me long for one myself. When I googled, I found two things, first, that Suzie Bubble of Style Bubble (one of my favorite fashion blogs) was onto this trend two years ago and second, that she already did the research and found them at The Very Merry Seamstress. British l'enfante terrible, Gareth Pugh showed ruffs for his infamous S09 collection in Paris. Gareth Pugh S09 The Very Merry Seamstress, $50-$60 Another good looking ruff can be found at Clockwork Couture and it's versatile too! It can be worn either of the ways shown here. Cotton Ruff

Kate Moss in Dior, British Fashion Awards Dec 09 Kate and Victoria Beckham Does Kate Moss ever get it wrong? I think not. At last week's British Fashion Awards it was no surprise that she was voted by the public as "the individual who embodies the spirit of London." Her outfit was the perfect anti-dote to the ubiquitous short, sharp, body-con dress beloved by London's fashionistas and wags. A 3/4 sleeve tuxedo jacket, black opaque hose and rock-chic belt added the perfect pinch of je ne sais quoi to a transparent Dior gown. Apparently this was the first time she had met fellow British style icon Victoria Beckham! Now there's a conversation worth listening into.

Pringle Pre-Fall 2010 Clare Waight Keller showed a collection for Pringle that emphasized the house's traditional emphasis on woolly knits, military details and other Highland favorites.

Rihanna in Italian Vogue September 2009 It's feeling to me like a Joan of Arc moment! So many of the Fall 09 and now Pre-Fall 10 looks had an element of protectiveness about them, classic pieces reworked in leather, over-the-knee or thigh-high boots, massive shoulders ... Then there was that great spread in Italian Vogue this September featuring Rihanna in metal armor-like shin plates. Lanvin Fall 07 The Joan of Arc/Warrior Woman look all began in Fall 07 with a seminal runway show from Alber Elbaz for Lanvin. It saw the return of jackets with built-up shoulders and puffed sleeves over slim leggings or pants, metallic dresses and metal grommet trims. Lanvin Fall 07 I think the shaggy cropped bob still looks cool and ultra-modern. Acne, S2010 Finally, from Swedish denim brand Acne, designer Jonny Johansson sent jeans to the British jeweler Husam El Odeh, who came back with flexible silver nickel plates to bolt on as knee armor and back-pocket patches.

Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2010 Two more designers with a military bent for Pre-Fall 2010 are Vera Wang and Jason Wu, who confirms that a big belt is a must-have accessory for that season! Vera Wang Pre-Fall 2010

Chanel Pre-Fall 2010 For the Chanel show the designation was Shanghai and naturally enough Karl Lagerfeld included a whole host of Chinoiserie and Red Army detailing. But amongst the cheongsams, Qipao gowns, Mongolian tapestry boots and shaggy furs was hard evidence that over-the-knee and thigh high boots will be as important next year as they are now, more parade uniform styling for overcoats and what is fast becoming a Pre-Fall 2010 basic requisite, leather leggings.

Burberry Pre-Fall 2010 Burberry's Christopher Bailey marches to the beat of his own drum, confident in his ability to execute a modern collection without losing sight of the brand's heritage. It is also to his advantage that the military trend has marched right on through this decade allowing him to re-work several of the label's traditional design details. For Pre-Fall there's a play on epaulets that emphasize broad shoulders and a belted jacket or coat over skinny pants or, yes, you've guessed it, leggings! Military to be sure, but more "officer on parade" than undercover camouflage.

Versace Pre-Fall 2010 To paraphrase Heidi K, in fashion, one day it's Spring and the next day it's already Pre-Fall. Versace's collection showed that trends continuing from this year will include lingerie-inspired dresses and corsets, a fuller-on-top, skinny-on-the-bottom silhouette, peaked shoulders, leggings (again!!) and fun fur gilets. So if you decide to only buy one thing for Pre-Fall next year, make it a really great belt because they go over EVERYTHING.

Roberto Cavalli F09 Several designers showed thigh high black leather boots this year and they have every sign of staying around for F10 making them a great investment. Why the longevity of the trend? It's part of a general desire to wrap up in layers that protect against the slings and arrows of our modern world! These photos are from the Cavalli show for Fall 09. It was interesting to me that this designer so well known for Luxe Hippie and overly-embellished Italian styles showed more severe, body-conscious black-on-black looks trimmed with gold grommets. Perfect for the modern Warrior Woman! Jimmy Choo for H&M, $299 Here is another version from Jimmy Choo, part of a great capsule collection from H&M. Again the styling evokes Medieval knights!