TREND I-SPY

More proof-positive that Alexander McQueen was not simply a great fashion designer but also a true visionary comes from an article in Britain's The Daily Mail which recently reported that UK department store Debenhams has become the first major retailer to show a disabled model in an advertising campaign. 32 year old Shannon Murray has been using a wheelchair since breaking her neck at the age of 14. McQueen included the double-amputee model and athlete Aimee Mullins over 10 years ago in his Spring 2000 Collection. She wore intricately carved wooden legs! Just how many men and women are being sent home from the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan with missing limbs is not certain but the numbers are significant enough to raise awareness of a potential new consumer group, people with special needs. Principles by Ben de Lisi for Debenhams Spring 2010 The late, great photographer Helmut Newton was famous for exploring "the dark side" of beauty. In 1995 he caused an uproar in fash...

As I mentioned recently, the current fascination amongst certain runway designers and celebrities with racy lingerie looks often brings to mind Helmut Newton 's style of photography. If only he were still alive, what a moment he'd be having. Unfortunately he died in a macabre accident when his car hit a wall in the driveway of Chateau Marmont which had for several years served as his L.A. residence. It has been speculated that Newton suffered a heart attack in the moments before the collision. Newton favorite Nadja Auermann appeared in many of his portraits including these photos taken for American Vogue in 1994. Newton was born in Berlin in 1920. The 1972 movie Cabaret based on a novel written by British author Christopher Isherwood, Goodbye to Berlin evokes the air of danger and desperation prevalent during the years of the Weimar Republic as Hitler rose to power and Jews were increasingly discriminated against. Seemingly the spirit of smoke-filled, pre-WW2 German night-clu...

Ysl F09 Corsetry of the sort Helmut Newton used to favor in his photography, was featured on several Paris runways for Fall 09 and is in stores now. Stefano Pilati showed a strong collection that fully utilized the air of sophisticated eroticism only supple black leather can engender. This included a zippered body suit first shown alone and then styled with a sober pinstripe pencil-skirted suit. To me it looks even sexier peaking out from underneath the jacket than it does when fully revealed. Here is the inimitable Kate Moss wearing a similar outfit in an ad for YSL fragrance Parisienne. Karl Lagerfeld shot a fashion editorial story for Harpers Bazaar this month featuring a similarly styled outfit from his collection for Fendi. Ooh, la la! Harpers Bazaar, November 09 Lady GaGa in January 2010

Galliano turns things inside out at Dior , Couture F09 I hate pantyhose, even the name is a turn-off so instead of spending the winter wearing jeans and trousers I'm considering the option of stockings and garters . The Couture collection for Fall 09 from Dior provided lots of inspiration. John Galliano underscored the growing importance in fashion of alluring foundation garments with half-dressed models wearing girdles, garters and other sexy lingerie pieces meant to emphasize womanly curves. When I watch Mad Men's Joan Holloway undulate around around the office I always think that her sex appeal is based more on imagining what lies beneath the body-con dresses and tight-fit sweater sets. Now the challenge is to find '50s/60s-inspired undergarments at less-than Agent Provocateur prices. Try www.orchardcorset.com for authentic corsetry. Also, Fantasy World at 192 7th Ave South has a vast range of stockings amongst the more fetishistic garb. Even the sandals at Dior gave...