TREND I-SPY

At this point, with over a decade on the job behind him, it's clear that Nicolas Ghesquière's design heart lies at the intersection of Fashion (Capital F) and active sport. His Pre-Fall 10 Collection for Balenciaga included many of the signature design devices we've seen in seasons past; technical fabrics, molded volume, leggings, sweats, skinny pants and mini wrap skirts. Most notable perhaps was the use of bold color and the sort of slightly tacky foliage prints usually associated with off-duty surfer dudes. What is somehow comforting is that delve back into the designer's widely-ranging repertoire of the past ten years and the seeds of everything shown here can be found in a previous collection. Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2010

Phi, S10 Phi, F09 Sadly, Style.com is reporting the demise of New York brand, Phi. Designer Andreas Melbostad became a favorite in recent seasons due to his success at executing the sort of hard-edged body-con looks favored by it-girls, models and fashion editors. Interesting then that Style.com is proposing a possible end to this tough girl look, mainly because the New York Times is reporting on its popularity amongst that same demographic. Meow! Now now girls, don't forget it's Christmas. " The New York Times has wised up to the tough and sexy model-off-duty look everyone’s channeling these days (pictured) and has summoned psychologists and trend forecasters to break it down. “It’s not cool to be demure,” one stylist polled reported. We’re guessing this means the trend’s life span is just about up. Bring on the chintz!" As reported in Style.com on 12/24/09

Rihanna in Italian Vogue September 2009 It's feeling to me like a Joan of Arc moment! So many of the Fall 09 and now Pre-Fall 10 looks had an element of protectiveness about them, classic pieces reworked in leather, over-the-knee or thigh-high boots, massive shoulders ... Then there was that great spread in Italian Vogue this September featuring Rihanna in metal armor-like shin plates. Lanvin Fall 07 The Joan of Arc/Warrior Woman look all began in Fall 07 with a seminal runway show from Alber Elbaz for Lanvin. It saw the return of jackets with built-up shoulders and puffed sleeves over slim leggings or pants, metallic dresses and metal grommet trims. Lanvin Fall 07 I think the shaggy cropped bob still looks cool and ultra-modern. Acne, S2010 Finally, from Swedish denim brand Acne, designer Jonny Johansson sent jeans to the British jeweler Husam El Odeh, who came back with flexible silver nickel plates to bolt on as knee armor and back-pocket patches.

Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2010 Two more designers with a military bent for Pre-Fall 2010 are Vera Wang and Jason Wu, who confirms that a big belt is a must-have accessory for that season! Vera Wang Pre-Fall 2010

Chanel Pre-Fall 2010 For the Chanel show the designation was Shanghai and naturally enough Karl Lagerfeld included a whole host of Chinoiserie and Red Army detailing. But amongst the cheongsams, Qipao gowns, Mongolian tapestry boots and shaggy furs was hard evidence that over-the-knee and thigh high boots will be as important next year as they are now, more parade uniform styling for overcoats and what is fast becoming a Pre-Fall 2010 basic requisite, leather leggings.

Burberry Pre-Fall 2010 Burberry's Christopher Bailey marches to the beat of his own drum, confident in his ability to execute a modern collection without losing sight of the brand's heritage. It is also to his advantage that the military trend has marched right on through this decade allowing him to re-work several of the label's traditional design details. For Pre-Fall there's a play on epaulets that emphasize broad shoulders and a belted jacket or coat over skinny pants or, yes, you've guessed it, leggings! Military to be sure, but more "officer on parade" than undercover camouflage.

Versace Pre-Fall 2010 To paraphrase Heidi K, in fashion, one day it's Spring and the next day it's already Pre-Fall. Versace's collection showed that trends continuing from this year will include lingerie-inspired dresses and corsets, a fuller-on-top, skinny-on-the-bottom silhouette, peaked shoulders, leggings (again!!) and fun fur gilets. So if you decide to only buy one thing for Pre-Fall next year, make it a really great belt because they go over EVERYTHING.

Roberto Cavalli F09 Several designers showed thigh high black leather boots this year and they have every sign of staying around for F10 making them a great investment. Why the longevity of the trend? It's part of a general desire to wrap up in layers that protect against the slings and arrows of our modern world! These photos are from the Cavalli show for Fall 09. It was interesting to me that this designer so well known for Luxe Hippie and overly-embellished Italian styles showed more severe, body-conscious black-on-black looks trimmed with gold grommets. Perfect for the modern Warrior Woman! Jimmy Choo for H&M, $299 Here is another version from Jimmy Choo, part of a great capsule collection from H&M. Again the styling evokes Medieval knights!

American Vogue October 09 According to The UK's Daily Mail pointy bras are making a come-back. Now we've established that designers like Dior, Prada, Marc Jacobs and Jean-Paul Gaultier are all looking back to previous "pointy bra" decades such as the '80s and '50s it makes sense doesn't it? Blogger Joanna Douglas points out (oops, sorry, couldn't help it) that Katy Perry, Lady GaGa and Mad Men have all helped to drive this trend. Shown here, from American Vogue's October 09 issue, Karlie Kloss photographed by Arthur Elgort at The Ritz in Paris. She is wearing a pointy satin bra and silk-tulle skirt embroidered with rhinestones from the Dior F09 Couture Collection. Creative director, Grace Coddington styled the ensemble in the same state of chic déshabillé designer John Galliano used for the show. Another designer who showed an interest in the pointy bra made popular in the '50s was Louise Goldin who incorporated the design into a modern sil...