TREND I-SPY

A Decade of Yves Saint Laurent Like everybody else I have been looking back this week and reviewing the major fashion trends of the Millennium. In doing so it occurred to me that you really only need to look at one major label and that is Yves Saint Laurent. the whole history of fashion in this decade can be found there! So see for yourself, the major items and themes of the decade as brought to us by the following designers: S2000-F2000 Alber Elbaz S2001-F2004 Tom Ford S2005-Present Stefano Pilati While all three relied heavily for inspiration on the original designs of the master himself, their modern versions of Peasant looks, Pinstripes, Leather and Snakeskin, The Trench and of course the wonderful Le Smoking were brilliant enough to bring these fashion classics into the new century and look thoroughly up-to-date while doing so. Alber Elbaz has since gone on to prove his worth as one of the best designers of his generation at Lanvin, Tom Ford has evolved into a brand unto himself a...

Phi, S10 Phi, F09 Sadly, Style.com is reporting the demise of New York brand, Phi. Designer Andreas Melbostad became a favorite in recent seasons due to his success at executing the sort of hard-edged body-con looks favored by it-girls, models and fashion editors. Interesting then that Style.com is proposing a possible end to this tough girl look, mainly because the New York Times is reporting on its popularity amongst that same demographic. Meow! Now now girls, don't forget it's Christmas. " The New York Times has wised up to the tough and sexy model-off-duty look everyone’s channeling these days (pictured) and has summoned psychologists and trend forecasters to break it down. “It’s not cool to be demure,” one stylist polled reported. We’re guessing this means the trend’s life span is just about up. Bring on the chintz!" As reported in Style.com on 12/24/09

Chanel Pre-Fall 2010 For the Chanel show the designation was Shanghai and naturally enough Karl Lagerfeld included a whole host of Chinoiserie and Red Army detailing. But amongst the cheongsams, Qipao gowns, Mongolian tapestry boots and shaggy furs was hard evidence that over-the-knee and thigh high boots will be as important next year as they are now, more parade uniform styling for overcoats and what is fast becoming a Pre-Fall 2010 basic requisite, leather leggings.

Roberto Cavalli F09 Several designers showed thigh high black leather boots this year and they have every sign of staying around for F10 making them a great investment. Why the longevity of the trend? It's part of a general desire to wrap up in layers that protect against the slings and arrows of our modern world! These photos are from the Cavalli show for Fall 09. It was interesting to me that this designer so well known for Luxe Hippie and overly-embellished Italian styles showed more severe, body-conscious black-on-black looks trimmed with gold grommets. Perfect for the modern Warrior Woman! Jimmy Choo for H&M, $299 Here is another version from Jimmy Choo, part of a great capsule collection from H&M. Again the styling evokes Medieval knights!

Leighton Meester in GQ Nov 09 Leighton Meester wore the iconic YSL black leather corset in a photo shoot for GQ this month demonstrating why she's the magazine's Obsession of the Year .

Ysl F09 Corsetry of the sort Helmut Newton used to favor in his photography, was featured on several Paris runways for Fall 09 and is in stores now. Stefano Pilati showed a strong collection that fully utilized the air of sophisticated eroticism only supple black leather can engender. This included a zippered body suit first shown alone and then styled with a sober pinstripe pencil-skirted suit. To me it looks even sexier peaking out from underneath the jacket than it does when fully revealed. Here is the inimitable Kate Moss wearing a similar outfit in an ad for YSL fragrance Parisienne. Karl Lagerfeld shot a fashion editorial story for Harpers Bazaar this month featuring a similarly styled outfit from his collection for Fendi. Ooh, la la! Harpers Bazaar, November 09 Lady GaGa in January 2010

Just received the December issue of Harpers Bazaar and one of my favorite pages is devoted to Lady GaGa, who clearly influenced those designers infatuated with lingerie, leather and lace during the Spring 2010 runway collections.